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Cream of Tomato Soup
This may be a commonplace among soups, thanks to Andy Warhol, but with care it can become something special. Canned tomatoes can work almost as well as fresh, but choose a brand that uses only tomatoes and maybe a bit of salt.
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First, a word about the tomatoes. It’s worth hunting through stores to find a brand of canned tomatoes that has only tomatoes in it, plus maybe a little salt. Nearly all brands add citric acid or concentrated tomato juice. Some toss in basil, garlic and/or a variety of chemistry “to preserve freshness.” I use an imported Italian brand that lists only tomatoes and a little salt as ingredients. I’ve made the soup with fresh tomatoes, but removing the seeds and skins is difficult and time-consuming, and unless the tomatoes are at their peak of ripeness, you won’t gain much over truly good canned tomatoes.
In a three-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter, then sprinkle in the flour and stir to blend well. Let this cook a minute or two to lose the flour taste, but keep stirring so it does not burn. Add the milk and keep stirring. The mixture should become smooth and a little less splashy, but not properly thick. Begin adding the tomatoes, maybe half a cup at a time, stirring to heat and combine. Don’t let it boil. When the tomatoes are all in, turn the heat way down and simmer it for 15 minutes or so, stirring occasionally.
To finish, remove from heat. Take half a cup or so of the soup and add it to the beaten egg yolks, stirring like crazy and adding the tomato-yolk mixture back into the soup as soon as possible. The idea is to temper the yolks so that they don’t turn into strings of scrambled egg in the soup. You should end up with a velvety consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste. No need to return the soup to the heat if you work quickly.
Serve with imagination. I like a dusting of fresh or dried dill. Croutons or a pat of butter work. Fresh basil or thyme are always welcome.
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